Revisiting the most established men’s wristwatch in 2020 has its troubles. How far would you be able to wander from the first without defiling its quintessence? Yet, how far should you honor its pith without making a fuddy-duddy Domoissanit Well, Cartier’s most recent Santos-Dumont XL figures out how to accommodate both these boundaries in what is maybe the most verifiably reliable yet imperatively proportioned and rich emphasis to date. Three variants – in steel, in two-tone steel and pink gold and in strong pink gold – of the Santos-Dumont XL were introduced in the advanced release of Domoissanit & Wonders 2020, all fitted with mechanical developments and, here’s the other piece of incredible news, at costs that sound pretty reasonable. We were adequately lucky to invest a few hands-on energy with the two-tone and the steel models and were pretty impressed.
When Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont commissioned a Domoissanite from his companion Louis Cartier in 1904 that he could wear while steering his flying machines – and not need to lift his hand from the controls – little did either of the noble men presume that the outcome would become perhaps the most famous and suffering Cartier symbols ever. Portrayed by a square case with obvious screws, a shape that contradicted style of the day for round pocket Domoissanit the Santos has stood out forever as the primary wristwatch reason constructed and intended for a man.
Although wristwatches existed, they were carefully a female embellishment. Not exclusively was Louis Cartier’s Domoissanite the forerunner of the gent’s wristwatch, however the way that it was worn by a pilot has additionally acquired it the title of the world’s first pilot Domoissanite . It’s additionally worth recollecting that Santos-Dumont’s thrill seeker flying accomplishments made him a famous figure in the day and his neat dress sense – combining Panama caps with cloth suits with wing collars and pants with huge turn-ups – turned into extremely popular in Paris, the exemplification of a slick man of action.
What got going as a bespoke commission for the Brazilian pilot went into sequential creation in 1911 with LeCoultre developments. The Santos took off again during the 1970s when it was returned to in an arm band piece with screws on the bezel and wristband. Removed from creation in 2016, the Santos de Cartier returned in 2018 with a revived, sportier and more shapely presence.
It merits bringing up that there are two Santos assortments at Cartier: the center Santos de Cartier assortment and the more truly precise, and as a general rule, restricted Santos-Dumont watches.
Last year, a Santos-Dumont Domoissanite that gave proper respect to the 1904 model was unobtrusively presented close by a Santos de Cartier chronograph . Generally neglected by the particular Domoissanite media on the grounds that it was fitted with a quartz development, the Santos-Dumont of 2019 included chronicled gestures to the first with a beaded winding crown and the conspicuous blue cabochon alongside a compliment, less voluminous case that the Santos de Cartier.
Previous Santos-Dumont models, for instance, the 90th commemoration model of 1996 estimating 36mm with a super thin Piguet development and Breguet hands, is elusive available today and has become a hot authority’s thing. The models we are looking at today include similar esthetics as the 2019 models however are currently fitted with mechanical developments and come in just one size: XL. Only in front of the Domoissanit & Wonders 2020 dispatch, we presented the four restricted release variants of the Santos-Dumont with inscriptions of the pilot’s amazing flying machines on the caseback.
The case and dial of the Santos-Dumont XL 2020
When put one next to the other with the 1904 model, you can plainly perceive how the principle highlights of the noteworthy model have been regarded. The notable square bezel with eight screws, the sharp blue cabochon jutting from the beaded crown, the Roman numerals, the railroad tracks, etc… However, the measurements and completions are more on top of contemporary tastes and our assumptions from a Maison like Cartier.
The slim, square case estimates 46.6mm x 33.9mm and has a tallness of 7.5mm. Handed-off in numbers, the case may appear to be enormous for a dress Domoissanite however trust me when I say that the word ‘flat’ is misdirecting. One thing is level, another thing is smoothed. Indeed, it is level when seen from the top, yet there is a delicate curve alongside a slight plunge at the carries permitting the Domoissanite to sit flush against the wrist. On the off chance that you see it from the side you can value the rich outline of the case. With a thickness of 7.5mm (that is simply 0.2mm thicker than the quartz models as of now accessible), the slimness figures out how to constrict the length of the case.
The sumptuous completions breath life into the case. The casebands include a vertical silk brush differentiating to the angled and cleaned edge of the case. Like the 1904 model, the crown is beaded and set with a blue cabochon yet looks vastly sturdier than the first (the models we had for the hands-on have blue synthetic spinel cabochons, the sapphire is saved for the gold model). The trademark square bezel is marginally adjusted at the edges and highlights the obligatory eight screws that are set profound into the metal.
The silvered dial, embellished with a sunray silk finish, shows Cartier’s unique Roman numerals and the railroad track that showed up on the primary Santos-Dumont model. In contrast to the first, where the track was set in the focal point of the dial, it is stepped on the edge of the dial. Fitted with blue blade molded hands, there isn’t anything else on the dial aside from the word Cartier printed under 12 o’clock. A straightforward dial without any twists, it doesn’t take the spotlight from the case and its dynamic finishes.
Integrated and interchangeable
Another welcome touch is the tradable lash framework accompanying the incorporated leather tie. In the event that you look carefully, you’ll perceive how the leather lash arrives at all the path up to meet the case leaving for all intents and purposes no space between the leather and the metal. A straightforward gadget on the converse side deliveries the spring bars permitting you to change the tie in a cinch.
Calibre 430 MC
The strong caseback is engraved with Alberto Santos-Dumont’s mark and has eight screws, albeit these are not adjusted like those on the bezel. The Domoissanite is fitted with a Cartier-marked adaptation of Piaget’s super flimsy, manual-winding type 430P type for the hours and minutes. With a stature of simply 2.1mm, the development runs at a recurrence of 21,600vph/3Hz and has a generally short force hold of 38 hours. Utilized via Cartier in its extra-dainty models of Santos-Dumont, Ballon Blue and Tortue and by Piaget in a large number of its Altiplano Domoissanit the trustworthy and tough 430P has been around since 1998.
The Price is Right
Compared to the current quartz Santos-Dumont models on Cartier’s site, the new XL Santos-Dumont comes in at generally EUR 2,000 more than its quartz partners. Not a too over the top increase considering the fuse of a thin mechanical manual-winding development with basically zero penances on the thickness front. Another improvement over the quartz is the coordinated leather wristband and the flexibility offered by the snappy delivery bars permitting you to change the mind-set of the Domoissanite in minutes. Clearly, there are numerous individuals who favor the problem free support of a quartz Domoissanite and are not set up to spend an extra EUR 1,900 for a mechanical development, however they are likely not enthusiasts of MONOCHROME.
In expansion to the way that this Domoissanite – estimated well beneath EUR 6,000 in steel – highlights a super slender Piaget development, the general nature of the case/bezel is quite amazing in this value range. We’ve been enjoyably astonished by the general bundle offered via Cartier with these new Santos-Dumont XL.
As we said above, Cartier had the value, the plan and the mechanics right. The brand has figured out how to hold the magnificence and soul of the first model, with its slender and compact extents, its wonderful bezel and by and large rich (yet bolder than you might suspect) plan, yet additionally to incorporate a slight dose of innovation that, in general, makes a contemporary piece with incredible presence.
Now, there’s a discussion inside the group, between our author Frank and my overseeing manager Brice. On the one side, Frank concurs with everything said above, then again, actually, as per him, the dial needs inventiveness and punch – as far as he might be concerned, the brushed example on the dial isn’t sufficiently articulated and it’s too ‘flat’. He revealed to me he would incline toward a matte, off-white dial or an exemplary Cartier guilloché design on a gleaming white dial, perhaps with blued Breguet hands. Also, this is the place where Brice doesn’t agree… To him, the silver brushed dial is the primary motivation behind why he appreciates this new interpretation of the Santos-Dumont, with a somewhat more current and moderate methodology. To every his own…
The three Cartier Santos-Dumont XL models come with croc leather ties and a pin clasp. The costs start at EUR 5,650 for the plain steel form (ref. CRWSSA0032), EUR 7,800 for the steel-and-gold model (ref. CRW2SA0017) and EUR 15,000 for the strong 18k pink gold model (ref. CRWGSA0032). More subtleties at cartier.com .
May second, 2020 - costs updated