You either like them or you don’t, Gérald Genta’s show-stoppers from the 1970s. Genta planned Omega looks for quite a long time (for example Heavenly body and Seamaster models) before he began his own company in 1969. Albeit planning watches was for the most part a task that individuals did who were on the finance of a watch producer, it was a prompt success.
As we as a whole know, Gérald Genta is the virtuoso behind the Royal Oak watch (1972) from Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus watch (1976) from Patek Philippe. The two brands have a long history in watch making and the two companies are considered ‘very good quality’ watch brands. Genta additionally planned the Ingenieur SL 1832 watch for IWC in the last part of the 1970s, however the plan of that specific watch has changed throughout the long term. There is no current Ingenieur model that looks very much like the first Ingenieur SL watch and accordingly out of degree for this article.
Before the Royal Oak and Nautilus, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe didn’t fabricate sports watches. Their index included thin gold dress watches, with or without complications. I couldn’t say whether that period as expected (1970s) constrained Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe to change that system or whether their clients just asked them for a treated steel sports watch worked with the craftsmanship and quality they were utilized to.
The Royal Oak and Nautilus have developed throughout the most recent many years, similar to the Royal Oak Off-Shore arrangement, Royal Oaks with all sort of mechanical complications and the Nautilus chronograph or Nautilus moon stage. The unadulterated variants of the Royal Oak and Nautilus were consistently there however – in treated steel – much the same as the underlying models of the 1970s. Patek Philippe additionally presented the Aquanaut, a more state-of-the-art variant of the Nautilus, however idealists appeared to have overlooked that model.
This article covers the most unadulterated Royal Oak and Nautilus references accessible today, the ref.15202ST and the ref.5711/1A, the Jumbo and the Jumbo. Both in hardened steel with a tempered steel wristband, similarly as Gérald Genta needed them to be. Before these titans meet one another, how about we momentarily present them one by one.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST
About 40 years prior, 3000 Swiss Francs would get you an exceptionally fair gold dress watch. Therefor, columnists and those associated with the watch business were in stun to see Audemars Piguet presenting a tempered steel sports watch for that measure of cash during the Basel watch presentation of 1972.
This treated steel Royal Oak ref.5402ST gestured to the openings of the HMS Royal Oak vessels (three altogether) that had an octagonal shape. Obviously, these British boats were named after the holy tree that concealed King Charles II of England and shielded him from his followers – the so-called –in 1651.
Besides the odd octagonal shape and the utilization of hardened steel, the watch was viewed as exceptionally level. Particularly for a programmed wrist watch. Inside, Audemars Piguet utilized their type AP2121, derrived from the type 920 of Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is the development that Audemars Piguet actually utilizes today for their Royal Oak ‘Kind sized’ and they are the lone ones who really are permitted to utilize (it has been licensed).
Through-out the years, Audemars Piguet utilized four references for this ‘unique’ Royal Oak, to be specific ref.5402ST, ref.14802ST, ref.15002ST and the current ref.15202ST. I utilize the term ‘unique’, as Audemars Piguet presented countless minor departure from the Royal Oak during the 1980s, 1990s and still does. In 1993, Audemars Piguet created and presented a more lively update under the sub name ‘Seaward’. In any case, I accept that is an alternate story.
Nowadays regularly mistook for the Royal Oak Date ref.15300ST (which is somewhat thicker and has the second hand), the ‘Kind sized’ ref.15202ST is the Royal Oak talked about here. This 39mm width watch has a 8mm thick case and measures 49mm from one drag to another. Albeit estimated a piece uniquely in contrast to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, one could say the Royal Oak is a slight bit more modest as per its specifications.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A
Patek Philippe presented the Nautilus in 1976, just a brief time after Audemars Piguet’s succesful presentation of the Royal Oak during the watchfair in Basel, Switzerland. The right reference of the main Nautilus is ref. 3700/1. This 42.8mm x 41.8mm watch was colossal for that time (thus the ‘Gigantic’), where even a distance across of 36mm was above norm for Patek Philippe. In the early years, the Nautilus utilized type 28-255 C, in light of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s type 920. This equivalent development was utilized in the primary Royal Oak and Vacheron Constantin ‘222’, planned by Hysek.
The Nautilus was fairly the enfant horrendous of Patek Philippe, as it was so unique in relation to their other watches. It appeared to be that since the presentation, this watch had (and still has) its own after. Patek Philippe made a couple of deviations of the first model, more modest in size, and the ‘Gigantic’ was even ended in 1990. In the interim, the Nautilus – and particularly the ‘Gigantic’ models – had transformed into a clique object and even the 42mm 1998 Nautilus ref. 3710/1 with power hold couldn’t in any case the supporters’ want the first Jumbo.
In 2006, 30 years after the underlying presentation of the Nautilus ‘Enormous’, Patek Philippe presented the 5711/1A. A commendable replacement of the first ‘Large’ with its 43mm and hour, moment and seconds hand just dial. The development inside is Patek’s type 324 SC, their own assembling movement.
The Royal Oak 15202 versus Nautilus 5711/1A
To make it simpler for ourselves, we simply utilize Royal Oak while examining the ref.15202ST ‘Kind sized’ and Nautilus while talking about the ref.5711/1A ‘Large’ during the remainder of this article.
Often referenced in one sentence, the first Nautilus and the Royal Oak are totally different watches when you wear them. I had the chance to have them both for some time and offer my discoveries with you. Both have a genuine sticker price, individuals today are giving a similar response when they hear the current rundown cost as they did during the 1970s. Both rundown costs are approx 22.000 Euro. As the most common thing for non-watch devotees is to get some information about cost of the watch you are wearing when they hear you are an enthusiast of very good quality watches, practically every one of them couldn’t accept their ears. So the first ‘1972 impact’ of the excessive cost of a tempered steel watch is still there.
Having that said, you may be utilized to limits on rundown costs of watches. Despite the fact that you can hope to get a fascinating markdown on the Royal Oak, the Nautilus is near retail and at times significantly over rundown, as we were utilized from the Rolex Daytona in the last part of the 1990s and 2000s. A holding up rundown at the approved seller goes for the two models, as they have both low creation numbers.
When wearing the watches or taking a gander at the watch next to each other, as presented above, you will rapidly make the inference that albeit both are planned by a similar individual, these watches are very not the same as one another. Albeit the details told you other astute, the Royal Oak feels and shows somewhat greater than the Nautilus. The Nautilus is somewhat more extensive however, because of its ‘ears’ on each side.
The lunette on the two watches is simply staggering. Albeit the Nautilus has a more by and large cleaned look, the satinized parts are done with the out most exactness and care. The vibes of the Royal Oak are a smidgen more ‘no-nonsense’ with its white gold 8 octagonal jolts, yet in any case as amazing completed as the Patek Philippe. Simply unique. It is up as one would prefer which look is to be preferred.
Because the drags of the Royal Oak are somewhat more and welded along down the wrist, this watch wears somewhat greater and isn’t reasonable for individuals with a tiny wrist as it will stand out a piece. The Nautilus, albeit estimated somewhat greater, has more limited hauls on each sides making it a fit for each sort of wrist.
With regard to the stature of the watch, there isn’t a lot of contrast. The Royal Oak estimates 8 mm in tallness and the Nautilus estimates 8.6mm in height.
Also regarding details, there isn’t a lot to contend about. The Royal Oak’s type 2121 development is just 3.05mm in tallness and the Nautilus’ type 324SC development is 3.3mm in stature. Just a tiny contrast, albeit the method behind this non-complicated development varies. The type 2121 utilizations a rail to have the 21 carat gold skeletonized rotor of the development rather than the more normal metal roller framework that Patek’s type 324 SC uses.
Both developments have been done with similar commitment and indications of craftsmanship, the two developments utilize the Gyromax balance framework and the two developments are very much regarded among watch creators and authorities. Because of the skeletonized rotor and the rail arrangement of the rotor we will undoubtedly say that on the off chance that we needed to settle on a choice by any means, we’d incline toward AP’s development. Be that as it may, there is no genuine inclination so we’d say it is an equal the initial investment here.
We do might want to take note of that this development is the place where the Royal Oak ‘Enormous’ stands apart from his more youthful sibling, the ref.15300ST with its in-house AP type 3120. The development of the 2121 type is more costly to deliver and empowers the ‘Large’ to have a compliment case (no second hand as well).
The dial of the Nautilus is a genuine piece of workmanship. The tones are hypnotizing when the point of the light changes on the dial with its flat decorated bars. It may change from dull blue to green and it looks if the middle piece of the dial is more splendid than its remainder. There is additionally a white dial variant of the 5711/1A, presented a couple of years ago.
The dial of the Royal Oak is accessible in three flavors. The one we have is the charcoal dial, which is the haziest variation of the three. At that point there is the white dial and the blue dial. The charcoal dial is being confused with either a dark or dull blue dial a few times, where the genuine blue dial is dark blue. In spite of the fact that it is difficult to catch the shade of the charcoal dial, it isn’t just about as unique as the Nautilus dial.
The Royal Oak has the motor turned ‘clous de Paris’ example on the dial, additionally called a tapisserie dial. Previous references of the Royal Oak has a more modest example, which is viewed as more pleasant than the current one by many. Be that as it may, this is the solitary comment we can give about this dial.
We’ve additionally investigated the Nautilus dial and there is just one comment we have there also. The date window is found all in all too far to one side, which makes the dial somewhat out of equilibrium. Notwithstanding, we are talking top of the line watches here with a plan that has substantiated itself more than 30 years now. So these comments are very marginally.
Although the hands on the Nautilus are bit more extensive than those on the Royal Oak, they are in a similar style. The Nautilus is – obviously – highlighting a second hand as well.
Bracelet and clasp
As recently expressed, the vibes of these watches are moderately unique in relation to one another. The Nautilus has a more smooth and refined look where as the Royal Oak is a touch more extreme looking. The equivalent goes for the wristband of these notorious watches. Arm bands of this quality and finish are uncommon on games watches and maybe somewhat more slender than most other bracelets.
The mechanical look on the Royal Oak is loved by numerous and the comfort of it is greatly valued also. Patek Philippe has made a wristband that looks more ‘delicate’ and adjusted. Quality insightful, we would prefer not to contend here. Both are scratch magnets, because of the glossy silk finish and cleaned components on the arm band joins. A few group will in general feel that an alternate sort of tempered steel is being utilized (in comparison to other brand’s games watches) since they scratch so effectively, yet this is simply because of the finish.
A twofold collapsing catch has been utilized for the Nautilus and a solitary fasten for the Royal Oak. Whatever floats his boat, yet we offer have a little kindness to the AP signature in the catch of the Royal Oak. A pleasant detail. See for yourself.
One comment we need to cause is that these wristbands to feel so thin, it is practically similar to wearing a vintage and delicate watch. Not in essence something terrible, but rather know about this. (Note: The Royal Oak wristband has received an redesign in 2012, bringing about a more strong inclination and looking bracelet).
This article showed up first on 2011, however has been quite possibly the most perused distributions on Fratello Watches from that point onward. I chose to re-distribute it once more, despite the fact that the Royal Oak 15202 in this article is the past model (before 2012).
The 2012 update got a dial that is all the more near the first reference 5402 from 1972, with its more modest Clous de Paris design yet in addition because of the AP logo being re-situated to 6 o’clock. Other than the dial, changes were made to the wristband. The new arm band feels less shaky (albeit the old wristband has never fizzled on me by and by). Maybe, yet that is an individual perception, I locate the new wristband is all in all too thick for the super slender watch. Notwithstanding, this decision depends on the past 15202 reference and 5711/1A. In the in the interim, the Royal Oak 15202 has seen a couple of steep cost increments. The watch was around 14K Euro list when this article initially showed up while is presently 22.5K Euro. The market cost of the AP Royal Oak subsequently likewise expanded a lot. The distinction among list and the market cost has become practically nothing. Costs of used AP Royal Oak 15202 (the model examined in this article) went up to around 15K Euro. The cost of the Nautilus is 22.7K Euro and the market cost is as yet over rundown. Going somewhere in the range of 23K and 28K. The white dial form of the Nautilus is to some degree less expensive and simpler to discover, however hope to pay rundown or more as well.
So, what’s the decision after a time of wearing and comparing them? The Nautilus is definitely the more pursued watch of the two, subsequently the holding up rundown and asking costs that are over rundown cost. The Royal Oak will give you in any event however much value for the money that the Nautilus does, yet one can’t preclude feeling of course.
Personally, I think the Nautilus was all in all too little for my wrists though the Royal Oak felt awesome. This was predominantly because of the way that the Royal Oak feels more ‘integrated’ with its bracelet. The best thing you can do is to attempt every one of them yourself, in the event that you can discover a seller who has them on supply obviously. Notwithstanding, there is presumably consistently a watch enthusiast close by who has at any rate of them so you ought to have the option to attempt one at a watch GTG or fair.
The question truly is, which one offer you kindness? Or on the other hand do you totally loathe these Genta plans in general? Like we wrote in the main sentence of this article, you either love them or disdain them.
Double collapsing fasten of the PP Nautilus 5711/1A Closed catch of the PP Nautilus 5711/1A wristband AP marked catch of the Royal Oak 15202 Closed catch of the AP Royal Oak 15202 arm band The dials of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Audemars Piguet type 2121 with its skeletonized rotor Patek Philippe type 324 SC seen through its straightforward caseback Side by side, the Nautilus and Royal Oak Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 15202