Fratello Watches x Grand Seiko Reader’s Journey – Part 2

Fratello Watches x Grand Seiko Reader’s Journey – Part 2

In section 1 you’ve read that during our reader’s excursion to Japan, we’ve been visiting the Grand Seiko fabricate in Shiojiri. In that area, we saw the making of Grand Seiko and Credor models, utilizing their Spring Drive and 9F quartz developments. We likewise had a workshop in cleaning cases in the ‘zaratsu’ style and applying files on the Grand Seiko dials. Great Seiko ensured that we got a visit, yet additionally two or three masterclasses to show how troublesome a portion of the abilities are.

Grand Seiko Reader’s Journey – Part 2

After our first days in Tokyo and Shiojiri, we had a ‘day off’ on Wednesday. Obviously that a large portion of us went ‘watch shopping’. Tokyo makes them interest spots to visit if you’re into watches. As you could as of now have in perused in a portion of the articles by Michael Stockton, the Nakano Broadway area is great if you’re searching for vintage and used watches. A shop called has an astounding choice of used and vintage watches. There are likewise some different shops in the Nakano Broadway shopping center, that have a good proposal of intriguing watches. I need to say that since the last time I visited Jack Road and different shops in Nagano Broadway, the costs have expanded a considerable amount. For a deal on vintage watches you ought to maybe go to different spots. In Ginza, I visited along with one of our visitors. An intriguing spot situated in the storm cellar in a shopping road. You will locate a fascinating determination of vintage (Grand) Seiko looks just as watches from brands like Rolex, Omega, Longines, JLC and so forth Later on that day, we visited Lemon. Lemon is situated close to the Ginza Metro Station and sells cameras, wellspring pens, prepares and watches. Maybe a couple of different things too. I’ve read great anecdotes about this shop, yet to be straightforward I was very frustrated by it. It truly relies upon what is being offered whether it merits the visit, as (most) watches are in transfer. I had two King Seikos removed from the presentation, the solitary watches worth requiring out that day, and both were torn up pretty bad. Vigorously harmed case back (which isn’t a sign that somebody with legitimate abilities and information has opened it up) on the one, and a harmed dial on the other (dampness). Costs were reasonable however, yet not something I’d spend my cash on. In any case, all things considered, when you’re in Ginza I would investigate no one can tell what they have in plain view. You may be fortunate some day.

Seiko’s WAKO retail chain in Ginza

Ginza is additionally loaded with new shops. Sample Group has a tremendous structure, where you’ll discover Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Longines and so forth The Hour Glass is only one street or two away with a great choice of watches from different brands, including a Patek Philippe corner. Richard Mille has a shop there too, where they grandstand some noteworthy complicated watches. On the off chance that you’re searching for new Grand Seiko models, you unquestionably need to visit WAKO. This retail chain is claimed by Seiko and has a pleasant watch determination. (Terrific) Seiko and Credor, yet in addition brands from the Swatch Group and Richemont Group are being offered there. For the 70th commemoration of the WAKO shop, there will be a restricted release Grand Seiko of 30 pieces that must be purchased on October 19th 2017. There’s likewise a Grand Seiko chronograph with Spring Drive development for the WAKO shop, yet I didn’t snap a picture of that one. You can without much of a stretch discover it on the web however when you google for it.

Trip To The Seiko Museum

Next day, the Grand Seiko Reader’s Journey pack was back together and we visited the Seiko Museum in Tokyo. Mr Kobari, the gallery custodian, gave a motivating visit through the various segments of the exhibition hall. They have an enormous choice of Seiko watches and tickers, including the absolute first Grand Seiko models. A different piece of the historical center is additionally devoted to timekeeping in sports.

Interesting to see is that the Seiko Museum contains a great deal of watches that were critical to the company’s choices. The principal pocket watches are there just as the main wrist watch, a piece from 1913 called ‘Laurel’. The Presage watches from some time prior were motivated by this Laurel watch, as we clarified here .

Something that Seiko never underscored much about, is the King Seiko versus Grand Seiko competition they had during the 1960s. Watches that were made by two distinctive Seiko industrial facilities, with the solid solicitation from Seiko’s the board to create the best wrist watch they could. Eventually, the two assortments were dropped during the 1970s yet Grand Seiko resuscitated in 1988. The King Seiko actually is a resting delight. The primary Grand Seiko that was once again introduced in 1988 was a quartz model. In the in the mean time, Seiko likewise began building up a mechanical development for the Grand Seiko assortment that was at last once again introduced in 1998.

Below, one of the data signs from the exhibition hall that clarifies ‘the Grand Seiko Style’ that was presented in 1967. It shows the vital highlights of the case plan that you will in any case discover in a portion of the Grand Seiko models today. The main Grand Seiko model that was planned by these key highlights, was their 44GS model from 1967.

For additional pictures on the Seiko gallery, click this connection of a report we did earlier . The showcases in the exhibition hall give an incredible impression of the watches that Seiko has created. You will locate the principal jumping watches, like the 62MAS6159-7000 and the Grand Father Tuna for example.

The pleasant thing about the Seiko Museum is that you will likewise come across verifiable huge watches that won’t cost you dearly. The King Seiko is an incredible model ( click here for an examination on those ) You will likewise discover the Seiko Pogue in the gallery for instance, which can be bought for two or three hundred Euros and you will get some ‘space’ history there. What I additionally appreciated was their ‘3D’ plan computer, where you could ‘virtually’ dismantle Grand Seiko developments, utilizing a couple of 3D glasses and a pointer (to get, turn, focus in on parts). Beneath, you see one of the members and Mr. Kobari ‘virtually’ dismantling a development.

Next Stop: Morioka

After visiting the exhibition hall, we left by the acclaimed Hayabusa slug train for Morioka. Morioka is found a decent 520 kilometers north from Tokyo, so that requests quick transportation. From Morioka station, we were gotten by a transport to carry us to in the Iwate Prefect.

We had a short-term in this conventional Japanese lodging and delighted in a customary cafe there too. It was an incredible encounter, similar to last time I was there in 2015. Next morning we left ahead of schedule with a transport to the Seiko Instruments Inc. creation office in Morioka.

In Morioka, there’s the (Morioka) Seiko Instruments Inc. area where the creation of the mechanical Grand Seiko watches happens. Other than that, you will discover another creation office for making Seiko quartz developments in huge amounts. Much the same as in Shiojiri, the creation limit on those developments is around 100 million for every year.

In contrast, you will locate that the absolute creation number of Grand Seiko is around 35.000 watches each year, of which most will remain in Japan. The creation of the mechanical developments is being done in Morioka, similar to the case making, gathering and testing of the watches.

In the anteroom, there’s a lasting show of a portion of the manufacture’s verifiable pieces.

Not everything could be shot or recorded, however we got a visit through the assembling where they showed us the creation of the movement’s parts. One of the developments that is likewise being made in this office is their 8L35(B) type. You may perceive this type from the Marinemaster 300 (SBDX017) or this year’s SLA017 ’62MAS’ re-edition . This development is likewise being delivered here, as it depends on the Grand Seiko 9S55 movement.

As you can see, the developments are being produced using scratch. A lovely costly park of CNC machines are dealing with the base plates and parts of these developments. CNC machines are devoted per type for certain creation periods. 

When the development plates are being done, they go into the completing and get together divisions. The completing on the Grand Seiko (and 8L35(B)) developments are for the most part being finished by machines. Striping, etching and so forth is being done in discrete divisions in the Morioka building. All can be seen by guests behind glass. There’s minimal that is being left well enough alone or stowed away from guests. Obviously, the developments for the Credor watches have hand-completing as disclosed and appeared to you in this article .

Also the creation and (sub)assembly of the equilibrium haggle, bed fork and escapement wheel occur in a different division, as can be seen beneath. Everybody works in this residue free climate and furthermore take estimations to remain sans dust with the defensive garments they are wearing.

And at that point, when the developments are prepared for get together and packaging, they go to the uncommon watchmakers that are confirmed Bronze, Silver or even Gold with Seiko’s own ‘Meister’ levels of craftsmanship. In one of the corridors of the Morioka Seiko Instruments Inc building, there’s this board with all the ‘Meister’ confirmed watchmakers that work on Grand Seiko watches.

In an extraordinary division, you will discover these watchmakers working at their own (maple leaf?) wooden work areas, particularly arranged to their necessities. The wood for these work areas comes from the district. Beneath, the ‘Meister’ watchmaker collects a Grand Seiko development and directs it. After this strategy, the developments are being cased. The last get together of the watch, where it will likewise get a tie or wristband, is done in an alternate division. Previously however, the watches (with developments) need to withstand some pressing factor in a test room.  In this room they test the Marinemaster 300, 600 and 1000 looks for water opposition. Proficient jumping watches that ought to have the option to withstand a considerable amount of pressure.

Disassembling & Assembling a 9S Movement

After this visit that gave us a great deal of experiences in watchmaking and how a Grand Seiko comes to life, it was the ideal opportunity for us to show our own abilities. All members got a mechanical 9S65A type development and a bunch of watchmaking apparatuses. One of the ‘Meister’ qualified watchmakers was before the study hall to show what should have been done.

After a short presentation and a show by the watchmaker, we dismantled the Grand Seiko 9S65A advance by-step.

I need to say that once you are a bit comfortable utilizing the screw-driver and pincett, the dismantling was very OK to perform. I had some masterclasses previously, from different brands, and the dismantling involves tolerance and adhering to the directions. Take a second look before your beginning, that sort of guidance. In any case, the gathering of the various parts is something different. Presently, extensions and wheels need to totally fit once more. Ensure you don’t power anything, it comes down to the square mm essentially. Fortunately, they gave us a magnifying lens to work with, which previously made it somewhat more simple. However, it was unquestionably extreme, particularly to get the stuff trains adjusted once more. Additionally, returning the equilibrium wheel was not excessively simple. Notwithstanding, when it began to ‘swing’ once more, the euphoric feeling is difficult to describe.

With this, the day in Morioka finished and we were taken back to the trainstation with a transport. From Morioka, we took the slug train back to the Shinjuku station in Tokyo. The week finished with an awesome burger joint in café Luke where there’s a Skylounge at the 47th floor with a wonderful view over Tokyo city.

The reader’s venture in Japan has been an impact and the members were all however energized as I seemed to be visiting Seiko in 2015. I was set up to a portion of the things we would be seeing during this reader’s venture, however it actually astounded me on occasion. Individuals at (Grand) Seiko are exceptionally open and cordial and take their watchmaking intense. As far as I might be concerned, it is pretty much common sense that Grand Seiko can rank itself among a portion of the incomparable Swiss names. In any case, I actually notice that this isn’t generally acknowledged and settled upon yet. Over the most recent few years Grand Seiko raised a considerable amount of mindfulness among watch aficionados, and with this outing I trust that our members and you, our perusers, take a gander at their watchmaking with an alternate point of view than previously. Or then again maybe you as of now were a Grand Seiko fan, I trust this report than will simply affirm what you definitely knew, or that you’ve mastered something new.

Some Watches People Brought

I understand that there aren’t many watch appeared in these reports. It is for the most part since it wasn’t a grandstand of new Grand Seiko models, however about the experiences and parts of watchmaking. Notwithstanding, a portion of the members brought truly decent Grand Seiko and Credor watches. Underneath, a determination of watches that were with a portion of the members on the reader’s venture in Japan.

Credor Eichi II

Let’s start with a blast. An exceptionally attractive three-hand watch with porcelain dial, platinum case and with a lovely hand-completed hand-wound Spring Drive development. For me it positions among the most lovely non-complicated watches. It was with one of our members of the outing, who carried it with him from the USA. He additionally met with the individual who made this very Credor. An astonishing encounter for both the proprietor and the creator.

Credor Skeleton

Another Credor. This one is a touch more ‘over the top’ than the Eichi II, yet by and by an amazing piece of craftsmanship. The etching is delightful and done in Tokyo. This watch is a yellow gold reference GBBD998 which is as yet in their present assortment ( ).

Grand Seiko 5722-9990 ca.1966

Some of the members likewise brought vintage Grand Seiko, similar to this reference 5722-9990. There were really two of these references with us in Japan. This specific one is from 1966.

Grand Seiko SBGW043

This Grand Seiko SBGW043 was acquainted in 2013 with commemorate the Grand Seiko 44GS model, the primary model that was planned by the ‘Grand Seiko Style’. We did a careful survey on this model in treated steel, SBGW047, some time back here on Fratello Watches . So now somebody got it with him white gold. It is perhaps the most delightful Grand Seiko’s I had found in some time, and the utilization of white gold makes it very noteworthy to wear too. It has hand-wound development caliber 9S64 and retailed at the ideal opportunity for an astounding 20.000 Euro. Just 70 pieces were at any point made in white gold.


Grand Seiko SBGH005

Although there were some really intriguing Seiko watches brought to the table (I additionally keep one in ‘stock’ for another article soon), this one is likewise very decent. The SBGH005 with hey beat type 9S85A development. A tempered steel 40mm watch with wristband and on the back you’ll locate a sapphire gem that shows you the howdy beat development. The dark dial is simply staggering. The profile picture shows how decent the case configuration is of this watch. For me personally,I would wear this watch on a calfskin tie to accentuate more looking into it plan. The tempered steel arm band gives a degree of comfort however, particularly when it is hot and damp outside.

I trust you appreciated the second piece of our Fratello Watches x Grand Seiko Reader’s Journey report. I might want to say thanks to Seiko Japan, Seiko Germany and all the members for making this reader’s venture a wonderful experience.

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