I am an enormous aficionado of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin, or as it was called before 2012, the ‘Jumbo’. It was really one of the watches that started my advantage in mechanical watches during the 1990s. Today, I talk you through the new reference 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01, the yellow gold Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold to commemorate the 40th commemoration of the primary model in this valuable metal.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin
You all know the story. Gérald Genta planned the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet, based on the port openings of the HMS Royal Oak vessels. The name Royal Oak started from the holy tree that concealed King Charles II of England and shielded him from his followers in 1651. In 1972, Audemars Piguet presented this Royal Oak watch at the Basel watchfair at a cost of 3000 Swiss Francs. A sum that would get you around 10 Rolex Submariner watches back at that point. An insane measure of cash for a watch in hardened steel. Advertised as an extravagance sports watch, however not actually implied as a games watch, obviously. More background data about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Extra-Thin/ Jumbo), can be found here.
It all began with the reference 5402ST model, A-arrangement, for authorities. We covered the A-arrangement not very far in the past, in this article . In reality implied for the Italian market, yet the watch was gotten by many (blessed) devotees around the globe. It clearly was the motivation for various different watches from that period, similar to the later IWC Ingenieur (Genta), Patek Philippe Nautilus (Genta), Vacheron Constantin ‘222’ (Hysek) later known as Overseas and the Girard-Perregaux Laureato (fashioner not known) for instance. A portion of these watches had a similar development of the Royal Oak 5402, the JLC 920 based type 2121 movement.
It wasn’t until 1977, when Audemars Piguet chose to fabricate their Royal Oak 5402 in yellow gold. They let go of the possibility of an extravagance sports watch in hardened steel, and chose to offer it in a valuable metal also. Beneath, an illustration of one of those mid 5402BA (BA represents gold in their reference coding framework) models. Photograph by the folks from .
Later references for the Royal Oak Jumbo, similar to the celebration reference 14802 and later reference 15002 likewise were offered in yellow gold.
Today’s reference is the 15202, which was likewise the reference number before the significant update in 2012 for its 40th commemoration. Prior to 2012, Audemars Piguet likewise had a 15202BA (yellow gold) in their assortment. After 2012, with the difference in the dial (“Petite Tapisserie”) and AP logo at 6 o’clock, Audemars Piguet offered the 15202 in rose gold (15202OR) other than the tempered steel reference.
This year, at the SIHH in Geneva, Audemars Piguet additionally delivered their Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold (once more). In two distinct renditions: one with a blue dial and one with a champagne dial. I should concede, I was stricken by the champagne dial adaptation from the principal second. This ‘gold-on-gold’ looking adaptation is just stunning. To my best information, and to the furthest extent that I could discover in books and by means of web indexes, there was no Jumbo or Extra-Thin before with this dial setup. Past versions consistently had the charcoal/dim blue or silvery-white dial.
Extra-Thin is truly thin
I used to have a Royal Oak 15300ST (three-hand rendition) and a Royal Oak Chronograph 26300ST and keeping in mind that these additionally estimated 39mm, they are significantly thicker than my 15202ST. Actually, I think any remaining forms of the Royal Oak than the 15202 (or its archetypes) are bit ‘off’ because of the way that the first measurements are no more. They are either altogether too thick, excessively enormous or have wristbands that are excessively thick. That is all close to home obviously, however the force of the notorious Jumbo (or Extra-Thin) is that the plan is right on target. Play with that, and you will consistently discover nitpickers like me that are all in all too fixated on details.
The gold adaptation has similar measurements as my own steel 15202 (from before the 2012 update). For the case that is, as Audemars Piguet changed the arm band somewhat on the new post-2012 models. The watch resembles silk on your wrist, and the slender case is really a delight to wear with shirts and sleeves. Because of the energy of the watch, it doesn’t have this typical ‘dress watch’ appearance like most other super slim watches have. The instance of the 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02 (15202BA.OO.1240BA.01 for the blue dial rendition) is 8.1mm thick and measures – obviously – 39mm in diameter.
What varies – other than the shade of the material – is obviously the weight. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold weighs essentially more than its treated steel rendition. Despite the fact that I love the 15202ST on the wrist, the gold form unquestionably has more presence. Because of the tone as well as because of its weight. You will see the watch constantly, which gives a consoling inclination I need to admit.
One of the purposes behind this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak being extra-meager, is obviously the development type 2121. This development from the last part of the 1960s, based on Jaeger-LeCoultre type 920, has been utilized since the time the Royal Oak was presented in 1972. It is a level development (3.05mm), for the most part as a result of the absence of ball heading. All things considered, the rotor coasts on this rail that guarantees a fairly slender generally bundle. This development, with its Gyromax balance and excellent completion, is certainly my #1 programmed (time-just) development. I’ve a few stories on this development over the most recent 12 years of running Fratello Watches, so I don’t need to continue to rehash myself constantly, yet it is actually a delight to look at.
From what I comprehended from their past planner, Octavio Garcia ( who I met here, during the Royal Oak display in Paris ), the type 2121 went through some little changes throughout the long term. It is surely a similar development and plan as those utilized in the absolute initial 5402 A-arrangement, however en route there have been rolled out certain improvements. For the eyes, at any rate the rotor changed radically. My own 15202 has a totally different rotor from this specific one.
To me, a player in the fun in claiming this watch is certainly in the development. As I composed above, I used to have the 15300 with type 3120 development, and chose to exchange up eventually for the Jumbo. As far as I might be concerned, the 15202 (or one of its archetypes) is the genuine article because of the development and because of that, the ideal components of this watch. I’m glad to see that the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-flimsy in yellow gold is no different.
Blue or Champagne
The SIHH 2017 was somewhat exhausting frankly, as I clarified in the main passage of this article about the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar . Additionally our companions James Stacey and Jason Heaton of The Gray Nato talked about this in their . In the very good quality portion, to which I certainly tally this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202BA, there wasn’t much wrong frankly. In the ‘entry-level’ up to 10.000 Euro (I know, still family member yet remember this is the ‘haute horlogerie’ reasonable) it was
quite exhausting. Other than the Lange 1815 Annual Calendar, this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is unquestionably among my SIHH top picks. Despite the fact that Audemars Piguet just changed the material (there was at that point a rose gold for this particular reference and there was a pre-2012 adaptation in yellow gold), this watch gave me a rush. As a side note, I feel frustrated about brands like Baume & Mercier and Montblanc, that have no genuine notorious piece which makes it difficult for them to come up with something distinctive.
Anyway, the selection of dials is basically astounding for this yellow gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin 15202. The blue form give a truly decent difference to the yellow gold while the champagne dial gives it a more ‘mono’ look – which I like.
At first, the champagne dial is by all accounts a piece ‘too much’, however when I attempted the two forms, I couldn’t help myself loving the champagne dial somewhat better. In any case, to every his – or her – own obviously. The two dials have the astounding “Petite Tapisserie” design, which can be appreciated on a portion of the nearby ups that Bert made during the photoshoot. The applied hour markers and hands are coated with iridescent material and give this astounding ‘classy’ look in low-light conditions. I truly love my 15202 when it gives that slight sparkle with its long stick markers. Just couple of watches can beat that appearance.
One of the comments I heard and read about this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is that it will gather scratches significantly more than its steel siblings. My 15202ST is to be sure a scratch magnet, despite the fact that I seldom wear it. It has dings and scratches on the bezel and various scratches on and close to the clasp. Due to the matte brushed surfaces on the watch, these scratches do get a ton of consideration when you take a gander at the watch. Then again, watches are there to be worn and these scratches in any event give the watch a touch of character. In the event that you like to baby your watch, I don’t know whether a steel – or gold – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin is the best approach for you. Each scratch may bring about a slight fit of anxiety. I saw that even a portion of the spic and span Royal Oaks that we had for our photoshoot in Geneva previously had a few imprints on them. Second day of the show.
The cost of this gold goodness is $55,400 USD, paying little heed to the dial shading you will pick. That is a genuine measure of cash. I recollect that, in 2010 or something like that, I was in Paris at one of the Audemars Piguet sellers at the Place Vendôme and they offered a 15202 in gold for 32.000 Euro. That was at that point a serious measure of cash for the 15202 in gold, as the tempered steel rendition had a rundown cost of (at that point) around 15.000 Euro. I think now it is simply above 20.000 Euro for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin in steel. That is a great deal of cash for a two hand watch and 55,400 USD for the gold rendition will likewise get you a watch with some exceptionally respectable complications.
Do I think that its great? I really love the yellow gold 15202, notwithstanding the exorbitant cost tag. It is probably likewise part of the extravagance and restrictive picture that Audemars Piguet likes to adhere to. I don’t fondle the imprint for gold ought to be that high to be straightforward. In any case, I see a similar occurring at other brand (which still doesn’t legitimize this). In any case, I think there will be sufficient individuals who don’t care about this and still need one. The fascination Audemars Piguet has I presume. I can just dream about having a particularly gold piece later on, yet up to that point I will appreciate the treated steel 15202 that I have.
More data through .
Type 2121 in the gold adaptation.