Gérald Genta Designs
You either like them or you don’t, Gérald Genta’s magnum opuses from the 1970s. Genta planned Omega looks for quite a long time (for example Heavenly body and Seamaster models) before he began his own company in 1969. Albeit planning watches was for the most part a task that individuals did who were on the finance of a watch maker, it was a quick success.
Patek Philipps Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
As we as a whole know, Gérald Genta is the virtuoso behind the Royal Oak watch (1972) from Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch (1976). The two brands have a long history in watch making and the two companies are considered ‘very good quality’ watch brands. Genta likewise planned the Ingenieur SL 1832 watch for IWC in the last part of the 1970s, yet the plan of that specific watch has changed throughout the long term. There is no current Ingenieur model that looks very much like the first Ingenieur SL watch and thusly out of degree for this article.
First Sports Watches
Before the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, these manufactures did not create sports watches. Their list included thin gold dress watches, with or without complications. I couldn’t say whether that period as expected (1970s) constrained Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe to change that system or whether their clients just asked them for a tempered steel sports watch worked with the craftsmanship and quality they were utilized to.
The Royal Oak and Nautilus have developed throughout the most recent many years, similar to the Royal Oak Off-Shore arrangement, Royal Oaks with all sort of mechanical complications and the Nautilus chronograph or Nautilus moon stage. The unadulterated forms of the Royal Oak and Nautilus were consistently there however – in treated steel – much the same as the underlying models of the 1970s. Patek Philippe additionally presented the Aquanaut, a more cutting-edge form of the Nautilus, yet perfectionists appeared to have overlooked that model.
This article covers the most unadulterated Royal Oak and Nautilus references, the ref.15202ST (the reference in this article was created until 2012) and the ref.5711/1A, the Jumbo and the Jumbo. Both in treated steel with a tempered steel arm band, similarly as Gérald Genta needed them to be. Before these titans meet one another, we should momentarily present them one by one.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST
About 40 years prior, 3000 Swiss Francs would get you a respectable gold dress watch. Therefor, columnists and those engaged with the watch business were in stun to see Audemars Piguet presenting a treated steel sports watch for that measure of cash during the Basel watch show of 1972.
This hardened steel Royal Oak ref.5402ST gestured to the openings of the HMS Royal Oak vessels (three altogether) that had an octagonal shape. Obviously, these British boats were named after the holy tree that concealed King Charles II of England and shielded him from his followers – the so-called –in 1651.
Besides the odd octagonal shape and the utilization of treated steel, the watch was viewed as extremely level. Particularly for a programmed wrist watch. Inside, Audemars Piguet utilized their type AP2121, derrived from the type 920 of Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is the development that Audemars Piguet actually utilizes today for their Royal Oak ‘Enormous’ and produce it in-house. Different brands, as Vacheron Constantin, additionally utilizes this development for a portion of their watches.
AP Royal Oak Jumbo References
Through-out the years, Audemars Piguet utilized four references for this ‘unique’ Royal Oak, to be specific ref.5402ST, ref.14802ST, ref.15002ST and the current ref.15202ST. I utilize the term ‘unique’, as Audemars Piguet presented countless minor departure from the Royal Oak during the 1980s, 1990s and still does. In 1993, Audemars Piguet created and presented a more lively update under the sub name ‘Seaward’. Nonetheless, I accept that is an alternate story.
Royal Oak 15400
Nowadays regularly mistook for the Royal Oak Date ref.15400ST (which is somewhat bigger with its 41mm diameter and has the second hand), the ‘Large’ or ‘Ultra-Thin’ ref.15202ST is the Royal Oak examined here. This 39mm breadth watch has a 8mm thick case and measures 49mm from one drag to another. Albeit estimated a piece uniquely in contrast to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, one could say the Royal Oak is a slight bit more modest as per its specifications.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A
Patek Philippe presented the Nautilus in 1976, just a brief time after Audemars Piguet’s succesful presentation of the Royal Oak during the watchfair in Basel, Switzerland. The right reference of the principal Nautilus is ref. 3700/1. This 42.8mm x 41.8mm watch was gigantic for that time (henceforth the ‘Large’), where even a width of 36mm was above norm for Patek Philippe. In the early years, the Nautilus utilized type 28-255 C, in light of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s type 920. This equivalent development was utilized in the primary Royal Oak and Vacheron Constantin ‘222’, designed by Hysek.
The Nautilus was fairly the enfant awful of Patek Philippe, as it was so unique in relation to their other watches. It appeared to be that since the presentation, this watch had (and still has) its own after. Patek Philippe made a couple of deviations of the first model, more modest in size, and the ‘Kind sized’ was even ended in 1990. In the mean time, the Nautilus – and particularly the ‘Kind sized’ models – had transformed into a religion object and even the 42mm 1998 Nautilus ref. 3710/1 with power hold couldn’t in any case the devotees’ crave the first Jumbo.
5711/1A since 2006
In 2006, 30 years after the underlying presentation of the Nautilus ‘Kind sized’, Patek Philippe presented the 5711/1A. A commendable replacement of the first ‘Large’ with its 43mm and hour, moment and seconds hand just dial. The development inside is Patek’s type 324 SC, their own assembling movement.
The Royal Oak 15202 versus Nautilus 5711/1A
To make it simpler for ourselves, we simply utilize Royal Oak while talking about the ref.15202ST ‘Gigantic’ and Nautilus while examining the ref.5711/1A ‘Kind sized’ during the remainder of this article.
Royal Oak and Nautilus Pricing
Often referenced in one sentence, the first Nautilus and the Royal Oak are altogether different watches when you wear them. I had the chance to have them both for some time and offer my discoveries with you. Both have a genuine sticker price, individuals today are giving a similar response when they hear the current rundown cost as they did during the 1970s. Both rundown costs are approx 22.000 Euro. As the most common thing for non-watch fans is to get some information about cost of the watch you are wearing when they hear you are a fanatic of top of the line watches, practically every one of them couldn’t accept their ears. So the first ‘1972 impact’ of the excessive cost of a tempered steel watch is still there.
Having that said, you may be utilized to limits on rundown costs of watches. Despite the fact that you can hope to get a bit of discount on the Royal Oak 15202, the Nautilus is near retail and some of the time considerably over list. A holding up rundown at the approved vendor goes for the two models, as they have both low creation numbers.
On the Wrist
When wearing the watches or taking a gander at the watch one next to the other, as presented above, you will rapidly reach the determination that albeit both are planned by a similar individual, these watches are very not quite the same as one another. Albeit the details told you other shrewd, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak feels and shows somewhat greater than the Nautilus. The Patek Philippe Nautilus is somewhat more extensive however, because of its ‘ears’ on each side.
The lunette on the two watches is simply staggering. Albeit the Patek Philippe Nautilus has a more generally speaking cleaned look, the satinized parts are done with the out most accuracy and care. The vibes of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are a smidgen more ‘no-nonsense’ with its white gold 8 hexagonal jolts in the octagonal bezel, however all things considered as sublime completed as the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Simply unique. It is up as one would prefer which look is to be preferred.
Because the hauls of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are somewhat more and situated under a point to follow the type of the wrist, this watch wears somewhat greater and isn’t reasonable for individuals with a little wrist as it will stand out a piece. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, albeit estimated somewhat greater, has more limited carries on each sides making it a fit for each sort of wrist.
With regard to the tallness of the watch, there isn’t a lot of distinction. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak estimates 8 mm in stature and the Patek Philippe Nautilus estimates 8.6mm in height.
Also as far as determinations, there isn’t a lot to contend about. The Royal Oak’s type 2121 development is just 3.05mm in tallness and the Patek Philippe Nautilus’ type 324SC development is 3.3mm in stature. Just a little contrast, albeit the method behind this non-complicated development varies. The type 2121 utilizations a rail to have the 21 carat gold skeletonized rotor of the development rather than the more normal metal ball framework that Patek’s type 324 SC uses.
2121 versus 324SC
Both developments have been done with similar commitment and indications of craftsmanship, the two developments utilize the Gyromax balance framework and the two developments are very much regarded among watch producers and authorities. Because of the skeletonized rotor and the rail arrangement of the rotor we will undoubtedly say that on the off chance that we needed to settle on a choice by any means, we’d incline toward AP’s development. In any case, there is no genuine inclination so we’d say it is an earn back the original investment here.
We do might want to take note of that this development is the place where the Royal Oak ‘Kind sized’ stands apart from his more youthful sibling, the ref.15400ST with its in-house AP type 3120. The development of the 2121 type is more costly to deliver and empowers the ‘Large’ to have a compliment case (no second hand as well).
The dial of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a genuine piece of craftsmanship. The tones are hypnotizing when the point of the light changes on the dial with its flat embellished bars. It may change from dim blue to green and it looks if the middle piece of the dial is more brilliant than its remainder. There is likewise a white dial variant of the 5711/1A, presented a couple of years ago.
The dial of the Royal Oak was accessible in three flavors, however the new (2012) reference just comes in blue. The one we have is the charcoal dial, which is the haziest variation of the three old varieties. At that point there is the white dial and the blue dial. The charcoal dial is being confused with either a dark or dull blue dial a few times, where the real blue dial is dark blue. Despite the fact that it is difficult to catch the shade of the charcoal dial, it isn’t pretty much as unique as the Patek Philippe Nautilus dial.
Clous de Paris
The Royal Oak has the motor turned ‘clous de Paris’ example on the dial, additionally called a tapisserie dial. Previous references of the Royal Oak has a more modest example, which is viewed as more pleasant than the current one by many. Nonetheless, this is the lone comment we can give about this dial. The current reference 15202 (more up to date than the one investigated in this comparison) has a dial that is made in-house. Since a couple of years, Audemars Piguet has its own dial producing office. You can appreciate the assembling interaction in .
We’ve additionally investigated the Patek Philippe Nautilus dial and there is just one comment we have there also. The date window is found altogether too far to one side, which makes the dial somewhat out of equilibrium. Notwithstanding, we are talking very good quality watches here with a plan that has substantiated itself more than 30 years now. So these comments are very marginally.
Although the hands on the Patek Philippe Nautilus are bit more extensive than those on the Royal Oak, they are in a similar style. The Patek Philippe Nautilus is – obviously – highlighting a second hand as well.
Bracelet and Clasp
As recently expressed, the vibes of these watches are generally not quite the same as one another. The Nautilus has a more smooth and refined look where as the Royal Oak is a smidgen more intense looking. The equivalent goes for the arm band of these notable watches. Wristbands of this quality and finish are uncommon on games watches and maybe somewhat more slender than most other bracelets.
The modern look on the Royal Oak is loved by numerous and the comfort of it is greatly valued also. Patek Philippe has made a wristband that looks more ‘delicate’ and adjusted. Quality astute, we would prefer not to contend here. Both are scratch magnets, because of the glossy silk finish and cleaned components on the arm band joins. A few group will in general believe that an alternate sort of hardened steel is being utilized (in comparison to other brand’s games watches) since they scratch so effectively, yet this is simply because of the finish.
A twofold collapsing fasten has been utilized for the Nautilus and a solitary catch for the Royal Oak. Whatever floats his boat, yet we offer have a little kindness to the AP signature in the catch of the Royal Oak. An extremely decent detail. See for yourself.
One comment we need to cause is that these arm bands to feel so thin, it is practically similar to wearing a vintage and delicate watch. Not fundamentally something terrible, but rather know about this. (Note: The Royal Oak wristband has received an redesign in 2012, bringing about a more strong inclination and looking bracelet).
This article showed up first on 2011, however has been quite possibly the most perused distributions on Fratello Watches from that point forward. We decided to re-distribute it once more, despite the fact that the Royal Oak 15202 in this article is the past model (before 2012).
2012 Update of the AP RO 15202
The 2012 update got a dial that is all the more near the first reference 5402 from 1972, with its more modest Clous de Paris design yet additionally because of the AP logo being re-situated to 6 o’clock. Other than the dial, changes were made to the wristband. The new wristband feels less unstable (albeit the old arm band has never fizzled on me by and by). Maybe, yet that is an individual perception, I locate the new arm band is altogether too thick for the super meager watch.
15202 versus 5711/1A
However, this decision depends on the past 15202 reference and 5711/1A. In the in the interim, the Royal Oak 15202 has seen a couple of steep cost increments. The watch was around 14K Euro list when this article initially showed up while is presently 22.5K Euro. The market cost of the AP Royal Oak accordingly likewise expanded a considerable amount. The contrast among list and the market cost has become practically nothing. Costs of used AP Royal Oak 15202 (the model examined in this article) went up to around 17.000 Euro. The cost of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is 22.700 Euro and the market cost is as yet over rundown. Going somewhere in the range of 23K and 28K. The white dial rendition of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is fairly less expensive and simpler to discover, however hope to pay rundown or more as well.
Nautilus is more looked for after
So, what’s the decision after a time of wearing and comparing them? The Patek Philippe Nautilus is without a doubt the more pursued watch of the two, consequently the holding up rundown and asking costs that are over rundown cost. The Royal Oak will give you in any event however much value for the money that the Nautilus does, yet one can’t preclude feeling of course.
Personally, I think the Nautilus was all in all too little for my wrists while the Royal Oak felt great. This was fundamentally because of the way that the Royal Oak feels more ‘integrated’ with its bracelet. The best thing you can do is to attempt every one of them yourself, on the off chance that you can discover a seller who has them on load obviously. Nonetheless, there is most likely consistently a watch enthusiast close by who has at any rate of them so you ought to have the option to attempt one at a watch GTG or fair.
The question truly is, which one offer you kindness? Or on the other hand do you totally despise these Genta plans in general? Like we wrote in the principal sentence of this article, you either love them or scorn them.